Main ingredients of anti-aging skin care products

Currently, the core ingredients of skin care products that have been clinically verified by dermatologists around the world and have clear anti-aging effects mainly focus on the four major logics of "neutralizing free radicals, promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting the formation of dynamic lines, and repairing photodamage." The core mainstream ingredients are vitamin C and derivatives, retinol and derivatives, Bose, and active peptides. Most of the other new concept ingredients that are popular on the Internet are compounded or conceptually packaged on these basis.

Let’s be honest, I helped my bestie tidy up the dressing table a while ago, and half of the table was filled with “anti-aging black technology” bought following the trend, such as plant stem cells and marine protoplasm. I checked the ingredient list and the total active ingredients did not add up to much preservatives. I simply paid the IQ tax. In fact, there is really no need to chase new ones. It is enough to understand these old and effective ingredients.

Vitamin C was probably the first to enter the public eye. Many people think that it only has a whitening effect. In fact, its core anti-aging ability is to neutralize free radicals in the skin and promote the synthesis of collagen in the dermis. It is a rare ingredient that can both prevent and supplement. But the original VC is too delicate, it will die if exposed to light, and it will irritate the face. Many sensitive skin will not only turn yellow but also break out after using it, so now most brands have made derivatives, such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, which has high transdermal penetration rate and is stable. There is no need to avoid light. When I go home after being exposed to the sun in the summer, I will always apply an essence containing this ingredient, and even sun spots are less likely to occur. Oh, by the way, a friend who makes raw materials told me before that the "new generation VC" promoted by many brands now is essentially these derivatives with a different trade name. When buying, it is enough to just look at the ingredient list, and there is no need to pay for new concepts.

When it comes to stimulation, we have to mention retinol, also known as alcohol A. This ingredient is really controversial. European and American skin care circles have almost deified it. They say that you should start applying low-concentration A-ol at the age of 20 to prevent aging. Even deep static lines can be faded with long-term use. I have combination skin and I use 0.3% A-alcohol essence twice a week. After using it for more than half a year, the dry lines at the corners of my eyes have indeed faded a lot. The lines that used to be stuck when I smiled are now basically invisible. But on the other hand, there are also many dermatologists who do not recommend it for people with a thin barrier, especially those with rosacea and skin that is prone to redness during seasonal changes. My sister has typical sensitive skin. She followed the trend and used 0.1% alcohol A once before, and she became red for three days. She couldn't even apply skin care products. Instead, the inflammation accelerated dullness. Both views are now supported by a large number of clinical cases. There is no absolute right or wrong. To put it bluntly, it depends on whether your skin can tolerate it.

People who are afraid of strong drugs now mostly choose Boseine. Its chemical name is hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol. It was previously patented by L'Oréal. After the patent expired last year, the domestic product circle was swarming with it. Controversy also followed: some people said that only L'Oreal's technology can allow Boseine to penetrate the skin and reach the dermis layer. Domestic products are all speculation. Some people have published third-party test reports. As long as the purity is above 30%, the effect of promoting glycosaminoglycan synthesis is no different from the Boseine in the original black bandage. I have used a 20% concentration of Bosein cream from a certain domestic product. It has enough moisturizing power in winter and my face will not collapse too much after staying up late. However, compared with the black bandage, the repairing power is indeed inferior. Later, I asked my friends in R&D to find out that the effect of Boseine depends not only on its own concentration, but also on the compound repairing ingredients. Many domestic products only have the concentration of Bosein, and other supporting ingredients cannot keep up, so the effect is naturally compromised.

If even Bose is heavy and dull, you can try active peptides. The most common one is acetyl hexapeptide-8, which is somewhat similar to the effect of smear-based botulinum toxin. It can relax facial muscles and has a particularly obvious effect on reducing dynamic lines. Several friends around me who love to laugh have used a 10% concentration of hexapeptide essence. The smile lines have faded a lot in more than a month, and makeup will no longer get stuck in the lines. There is also the recently popular ergothioneine, which is also a type of peptide. Its antioxidant capacity is more stable than that of VC. It does not need to be protected from light and can be used on sensitive skin. It is included in many high-end theater products. When I am sensitive during the change of seasons, I rely on it to maintain stability and resist aging. It will not burden the skin.

Oh, by the way, it’s not that plant anti-aging ingredients are all IQ taxes. High-concentration resveratrol and tea polyphenols do have good antioxidant effects, but many brands add less than 0.1%, which is equivalent to white coating. When buying, if you see these ingredients listed behind preservatives, you can basically ignore them.

After all, there is no standard answer to the matter of anti-aging. Some people have used A-ol for ten years, and their skin is ten years younger than their peers. Some people can still stay in good condition by applying mild peptides and hard sunscreen. There is no need to buy blindly after Internet celebrity ingredients. First, understand your skin type, and then choose ingredients with corresponding effects. It is better than anything else. After all, anti-aging is a long-term endeavor, and it’s more cost-effective than following the trend and buying a bunch of bad looks, right?